NEW DAY

It’s a new day

I say

Black gives way to grey

A pink glow signals the coming day

The sun peaks over the horizon creating a time for play

It’s a new day

Will it last?

A memory of a similar scene past

Set-lines forming smooth shiny and fast

Tubular curves growing, the calmness across the glass won’t last

I have to get out there quick, its gunna be a blast

It’s a new day

I confide

Imagining pulling inside

A footprint in my memory, the anticipation of the ride

The fear ‘n worry ‘n confidence divide, on take-off will all subside

It’s a new day

Tired eyes now see

Nature’s power calming me

Mist blankets the shore, and rises from the sea

The sounds, smells, the coast shaking swell, the freshness sets me free

It’s a new day

I'm out there, it's smooth

Set waves are approaching, so I paddle for the groove

I look along the face of a wave, and with one smooth move

I stand and grab my rail, and pull inside the tube

It’s a new day

‘Hooot!’

Published in Unleashed Surfer volume 4, Copyright JWILSON 2010 

MY FIRST WAVE

   I can still remember standing up on my blow up lilo riding the white water at age 7, and the thrill it gave me. It all began when my brother brought home an old single fin that to me as a skinny little kid seemed to be at least 10 feet long. While he was learning to surf I was on shore surfing a yellow boogie board. Laying down was no fun, so I stood up on that too. It took me about a year to convince my mother to get me a wetsuit and by then my bro had a thruster and the ol' single fin was mine for the taking. I would drag it over the beach and ride it in the river mouth on the white water before dragging it home again... with my brothers help that is.

   The big brother soon upgraded to a better stick so the thruster was mine. I can still remember finally making it out the back for the first time after getting hammered over and over. I still experience the same feeling of dread that I think all surfers are familiar with, when you hear the hoots of joy out the back and see the approaching set - and you’re still inside with your arms pumping as you battle to widen the gap between you and the shore.

   It was so awesome making it out the first time. I paddled over to the line up of less than 8 or so. They stirred me, reckoned that it was about time, but that didn't matter. The cool thing was they had accepted me, I was the crews Grommit, I had made it, fought hard, and now I was part of the crew. I felt instantly at home as I sat on my board in the glassy water, watching the spray from cutbacks fly from the crests of passed waves. To me getting out the back was a battle, but little did I know my battle had just begun.

   That first day I watched for a while but it wasn’t long before I got pressured into going for a couple of waves. The crew were yelling go, go, go, and laughing as they watched me go over the falls. I got hammered over and over, split my head, almost drowned, but I didn't quit.

   Our crew was small, tight, and consisted of a wide age group and experience level. There were state champion brothers, Davo and Shaun, a couple of older interstate guys, Mattie, Westy, Ferret and my older brother Jonno, our neighbor Richo and me the Grommit..

   The next day afternoon I could see the waves from the school bus. It was clean, offshore, with solid three foot sets, I couldn't wait to get out there. I was shit scared but excited at the same time, and I was determined to surf, I wanted to be the youngest, and best Grommit on the Island! The tide was just starting to go out and we were surfing the river mouth, so the occasional barrel was presenting itself, sandy bottomed and nasty. I timed it well and got out easily, as soon as I made the line up the pressure was on. Westy and Ferret were selecting waves for me, or should I say ‘Getting me hammered’ and the shallow water wasted no time in introducing me to the sand bar.

   I sat feeling cheated by the sea, frustrated by the guys setting me up. Davo moved over near me and started paddling for a wave, a small left around two foot. He told me to go for it even though I was cutting in, and I watched as he took off crouched inside the barrel. I felt the force of the wave grab me so I stood, still looking back, and as Davo’s barrel closed in on him he hooted. I could see the joy on his face as he watched me, and as I looked forward I noticed the water surrounding me, breaking over me, I was in the tube! It was like the whole world had vanished and time had slowed, it was AWESOME. Seconds later I came out and stood upright to hear the crew all hooting, they were going off! 

   So here I sit, writing this in my mid 30's, almost 20 years since my first barrel. I still surf, always will... The amazing thing is, I can still remember that moment like it was yesterday... 

COPYRIGHT2010, JWGREYLED